When you do the brake lines, replace the crush washers! If you replace the lines, it's a good time to substitute in SS-sheathed lines. Look for ones with teflon linings on the inside for best performance. My recommendation is that if you can take the time, rebuild the calipers too (disassemble, clean, replace the seals, reassemble). DOT 4 brake fluids (no DOT 3, not DOT 5; can use DOT 5.1, but I wouldn't recommend it). Preferred brands IMHO are Castrol GT LMA and Valvoline PowerSynth -- both are clear (making it easy to spot contamination and helping keep the brake fluid reservior window from yellowing) and both are higher boiling temps than standard DOT 4 specs. Do not leave your brake system dry for weeks on end -- it will dry out the rubber of both the caliper seals and the master cylinder piston seal, requiring replacement. If possible get everything on either end of the brake system done in a single day. It will also be a lot easier to bleed the whole system with SpeedBleeders (KR Special Offer). Yes, I sell them -- cheaply. You can get chains in the right lengths, or you can get the more common 120 link (which you would have to cut down for stock teeth). You can cut links out of a chain with a dremel easily enough, or a proper chain cutter is about $25. Don't get "racing" chains -- get regular chains; if in doubt, contact the specific manufacturer (not vendor!) and ask which chain they recommend for your bike. Racing chains are designed to be short-lived (a race or two) but save weight, and you probably don't want a short-lived chain. If you can afford it, get an automatic chain oiler. This will go a long LONG way towards making any chain last two to three times as long as normal. Chains have three methods of closure -- unending chains (already closed from the factory, but you have to drop the swingarm to fit it), rivet-style chains (the final link gets it's rivet mushroomed using a tool), and master-link style chains (a snap on link holds the chain together). Master links are weaker than the rest of the chain and I don't like them, so I recommend rivet-style chains for easy installation and longevity, but it requires some tooling to accomplish. if your chain is toast, you probably need to replace your sprockets as well. For longevity, steel-toothed or titanium-toothed sprockets are recommended; aluminum weighs less but won't survive nearly as long because aluminum is far softer a metal (even anodized, the substructure is softer than steel). 
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